The Bon Vivant's Choice 4. - Poltu Quatu
If there is a paradise on Earth, no doubt it is Sardinia
I have no issue with claiming Sardinia as my favourite place in the world. I’m fortunate enough to travel often, designating a different destination as being my favourite depending on the month of the year. But if sheer natural beauty is the topic at hand, then Sardinia has no equal.
The landscape of Sardinia lends the island a unique character. A rocky archipelago seemingly placed with intention amongst crystal clear waters gives the island a mythical quality, as if inserted by a higher entity. And yet despite the endless rock and craggy cliffs, the hills are bursting with colours of vivid greens, purples and whites as trees and flowers sprawl across a very martian-esque landscape. And nowhere else that I have visited can rival the consistency of a pink sunset every night without fail - a phenomenon only amplified as the dying light hits the already-orange rocks of the island, creating a warm glow unequalled in nature.
Porto Cervo, with its coloured buildings of pastel pinks and yellows steals the attention of visitors and shoppers alike, flooding (rightfully so) to the boutiques and internationally renowned restaurant chains for Japanese, Italian and Meditteranean flavours. Whilst I too allow myself to get swept into this thoroughfare of excess and the familiarity of recognisable storefronts, the real gem of Costa Smeralda lies no more than 10 minutes up the coast - Poltu Quatu.
Translating to “hidden port” in local dialect, the tiny coastal port of Poltu Quatu is deserving of its title - its deeply set cove and narrow port entrance makes Poltu Quatu difficult to spot from sea for an untrained eye. But once you are within the rock-sheltered bay, then it’s only a matter of minutes until you are at the mercy of the town’s beauty. Porto Cervo may have the shops, the superyachts and the models, but Poltu Quatu is for the Bon Vivant - the one who can rise above the urge to be seen, but rather indulge in the company of those who know.
I had the pleasure of being an invited guest at the newly opened W Hotel Poltu Quatu to revel in the majesty of this coastal paradise, with its handful of restaurants and cafes which transform into bursting havens of late night catch-ups and aperitivo during the high season. The town itself has spent the last few years undergoing major restoration following its acquisition by an Italian investment firm. There are definitely noticeable changes since my last visit, however very much in-keeping with the original Sardinian design of the north coast, with paneless windows and terracotta roofing. The hotel’s in-house restaurant, Tanit, serves a splendid array of fresh fish and local meats, and is a welcome respite for an evening cigar - on this occasion smoking one of the newest Maduro lines from EGM, as the sky began its evening transformation from a mellow blue to vivid purple. Following this, an evening stroll along the harbourside is always welcome prior to a medium-rare ribeye back at Tanit.
The array of moored yachts in Poltu Quatu is very much in-keeping with the jetset scene of Costa Smeralda, although slightly smaller and dare I say more refined than those down the coast, with a larger selection of Italian crafts lining the port, from mid-2010s Rivas to more modern Bellinis - a step away from the dutch megayachts dominating today’s Meditteranean.
I’m not one to gatekeep, nor am I one to share all of my secrets, but for readers of this substack I make certain exceptions. My go-to restaurant whenever I’m in town has to be Pacifico Rosemary in the hills above the north coast. Serving an array of Mexican inspired dishes, the selection of raw fish and meat tacos are an essential for every visit. And going early enough will reward you with a glowing sunset over the emerald bay below - the added cherry on top.
If I divulge all of my Costa Smeralda secrets in one go, where’s the fun in that? So for now, I leave you with Poltu Quatu, and as always, thank me later.
From one Bon Vivant to another, happy travels!
Azzam
Some of my essentials for this trip: Acqua di Parma Buongiorno Amore Mio, EGM Maduro, La Mer Moisturising Cream